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Gasherbrum IV 7925 m
One tour per person
tour features
| Departure & Return | Islamabad International Airport, Islamabad |
|---|---|
| Mountain Range | Karakoram |
| Elevation | 7925 m |
| Duration | 46Days |
| Best Time | Mid-May to End-August |
Gasherbrum IV, standing as the 17th highest peak globally and the 6th highest in Pakistan, is a prominent member of the Gasherbrum massif, nestled within the remote reaches of the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram Range of the Himalayas. This massif boasts three of the world’s towering 8,000-meter peaks, including the notable Broad Peak. The name “Gasherbrum” is often interpreted to mean “Shining Wall,” ostensibly inspired by the striking west face of Gasherbrum IV. However, its origins trace back to the Balti language, where “Agatha” signifies “beautiful” and “Brum” denotes “mountain,” portraying it as the “beautiful mountain.”
The mountain has witnessed significant mountaineering milestones over the years. In 1958, the first ascent was achieved by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri via the Northeast Ridge, under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin on an Italian expedition. Subsequent years saw notable achievements, including the 1985 ascent of the formidable 10,000 ft (3,000 m) high west face by Robert Schauer (Austria) and Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland), although they were unable to reach the main summit due to adverse weather conditions and extreme exhaustion.
In 1986, the Northwest Ridge witnessed its inaugural ascent by Greg Child, Tim Macartney-Snape, and Tom Hargis, marking the second successful ascent of Gasherbrum IV. Further expeditions added to its legacy, such as the 1997 conquest of the Central Spur of the West by a Korean team, led by Bang Jung-ho, Kim Tong-Kwan, and YooHuk-jae, and the 1999 second ascent of the Northwest Ridge by Kang Yeon-ryong and Yun Chi-won, as part of a larger Korean team.
In 2008, a Spanish team comprising Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo, José Carlos Tamayo, Mikel Zabalza, and Ferran Latorre made the third ascent of the Northwest Ridge, although they fell short of reaching the main summit, halting their ascent at a minor peak in close proximity. These endeavors continue to illuminate the rich history and allure of Gasherbrum IV in the realm of high-altitude mountaineering.
Day 01Arrival in IslamabadUpon arrival at the airport, transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay in Islamabad.
Day 02Travel from Islamabad to SkarduEarly morning flight to Skardu (flights subject to weather). In case of flight cancellation, travel by road to Skardu with an overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Day 03Skardu Exploration or Overland TravelIf the flight operates, enjoy a sightseeing tour of Skardu. If not, undertake overland travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive time is 22 – 24 hours from Islamabad). Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Day 04Rest Day in SkarduTake the day to explore Skardu and finalize packing for the expedition.
Day 05Skardu to AskoleAfter breakfast, embark on a full-day jeep ride to Askole – the last inhabited area before the Great Glaciers. (Tent)
Day 06Askole to JhulaTrek to the Dumurdo river crossing at Jhula. Previously a wire rope bridge, now replaced with a wooden bridge. (Tent)
Day 07Jhula to PaijuResume trekking along the Braldu River to Paiju, nestled under the shadows of Paiju Peak. (Tent)
Day 08Rest Day at PaijuTake a day for rest and acclimatization at Paiju. (Tent)
Day 09Paiju to UrdukasBegin the trek after an early breakfast from Paiju. (Tent)
Day 10Urdukas to Goro IIEmbark on a long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. (Tent)
Day 11Goro II to Gasherbrum IV Base CampAfter breakfast, trek to Gasherbrum IV Base Camp. (Tent)
Days 12 to 36Climbing ActivitiesEngage in climbing activities. (Tent)
Day 37Gasherbrum IV Base Camp to ConcordiaAfter breakfast, resume walking on the Baltoro Glacier to reach Concordia – a vast junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi, & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters. (Tent)
Day 38Concordia to Ali CampAfter an early breakfast, leave Concordia for Ali Camp. (Tent)
Day 39Ali Camp – Cross Gondogoro Pass – KhuspangBegin early, around 2 or 3 a.m., to cross the Gondogoro La and reach Khuspang. (Tent)
Day 40Khuspang to ShaichoAfter a short walk, reach the glacier. Navigate across boulders and ice, finally arriving at Shaicho campsite. Walk: 06 – 07 hrs, Grade: Easy, Altitude: 3800 m. (Tent)
Day 41Shaicho to HusheContinue walking along the Hushe River path after breakfast. Upon arrival in Hushe, camp near the fields in Hushe village. (Tent)
Day 42Hushe to SkarduAfter breakfast, embark on jeeps for a full-day ride to Skardu. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel and check-in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Day 43Skardu to ChilasDepart early for Chilas. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel and check-in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Chilas.
Day 44Chilas to IslamabadAfter breakfast, depart for Islamabad via the Babusar Pass. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Day 45Exploration in IslamabadProceed with debriefing at the Alpine Club in Islamabad. In the afternoon, enjoy a city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Day 46Flight from IslamabadTransfer to the airport for the flight back home.
Kindly be aware that flights to Gilgit Baltistan may be affected by weather conditions and potential backlog. Should a flight cancellation occur, we will proceed with travel by road instead. In such an event, one night’s stay in Islamabad will be incorporated into the overland journey.
Services included as following
Miscellaneous Fees:
- Peak royalty fees
- Pollution fees
- Environmental Bank Guarantee: The company will provide a US$ 1000/- deposit as an environmental bank guarantee on behalf of the expedition leader.
Hotels:
- 03 nights hotel stay in Islamabad with included Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner
- 01 night stay in Panorama Hotel Chilas with included Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner
- 03 nights stay in Skardu with included Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner – as per the itinerary
Transport:
- Pick up and drop-off service provided from/to the group upon arrival and departure, respectively. Air-conditioned van transportation available from Islamabad to Islamabad.
- Flight tickets arranged for travel from Islamabad to Skardu.
- Transportation arrangements made for briefing and debriefing occasions.
- Sightseeing tour organized for exploring the capital city of Islamabad.
4 x 4 Jeeps:
- Jeeps provided for transportation between Skardu, Askoli, Hushe, and back to Skardu.
Trekking and Base Camp Food:
- Food provided during the stay at the base camp, including breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Porters:
- Porters will carry members’ climbing gear, foodstuff, camping crew, etc., up to the base camp and return to the Jeep Roadhead. Insurance provided for all porters.
Staff:
- Insurance provided for the liaison officer and arrangements made for their role.
- Wages provided for the guide, cook, and assistant cook.
- Provision of camp food, transportation, and insurance for the guide, cook, and assistant cook.
Camping Equipment:
- Provision of a mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, mattress, chairs, and tables.
Kitchen utensils:
- Complete set of kitchen utensils, including crockery.
General Services:
- Tips provided for baggage handling at airports & hotels.
- Fees covered for bridge crossing, cable crossing, and camping.
- Assistance provided for re-confirmations of international flight tickets.
- Assistance provided for custom clearing.
Services not included in the given price
- Member international flight tickets
- Helicopter emergency rescue fees for members and any climbing gear
- Member personal insurance
- High altitude tent
- High altitude food
- High altitude porter
- Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks
- Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
- Custom clearing charges for import and export of equipment
- EPI gas and oxygen cylinder
- Unforeseen expenses such as roadblocks, extra hotel stays, or extended stays at Base Camp will be paid according to the number of days required
Transport & guide
Pick up and drop-off service provided
Hotels
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